Spaghetti with Braised Kale

I have ended many a meal with the crisp bite of a kale leaf left on my plate. Intended only as a garnish, I can't resist its thick leafy, slightly rubbery texture and bitterness in taste. Are you cringing at the thought?

Don't worry. In this recipe, the kale is cooked slow and steady (or "braised") until the kale is completely wilted. The bitterness disappears and leaves a nice deep, earthy flavor to the dish. The combination of the earthy kale, crispy garlic, sauteed onions, and salty parmesan is all that's needed for a simple fall dinner.


SWEET SCIENCE:
What makes kale (and other members of the cabbage family) so bitter?
Cabbages have two kinds of defensive chemicals in their tissues: flavor precursors, and enzymes that act on the precursors to liberate the reactive flavors. When the plant's cells are damaged, the enzymes start a chain of reactions that generates bitter, pungent, and strong-smelling compounds. The defensive precursors (called glucosinolates) contain both sulfur and nitrogen, which cause their immediate flavor products to have that distinct, bitter quality.
(from "On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen" by Harold McGee



RECIPE:
Spaghetti with Braised Kale
From Molly Wizenberg's "Cooking Life" column in Bon Appetit (October 2009)
serves 4

INGREDIENTS:
1 pound kale (about two bunches), large center ribs removed; cut crosswise into 1/2 inch slices
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 medium onion, finely chopped (about 1.5 cups)
8 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1/2 pound spaghetti
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
finely grated Parmesan cheese

DIRECTIONS:
Rinse kale. Drain, transfer to bowl.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in heavy large pot over medium heat. Add chopped onion and cook until soft and translucent, stirring occasionally, about 6 minutes. Add sliced garlic and sprinkle with salt; cook until onion is golden brown, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Add kale and remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and toss until wilted, about 3 minutes. Cover pot and reduce heat to medium-low. Continue cooking until kale is very tender, stirring occasionally and adding water by teaspoonfuls if dry, about 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, cook spaghetti in medium pot of boiling salted water until tender but still firm to bite, stirring occasionally. Drain, reserving 1/4 cup cooking liquid. Add cooked spaghetti to kale mixture in pot. Add lemon juice and 2 tablespoons reserved cooking liquid; toss to combine, adding more liquid by tablespoonfuls if dry. Sprinkle spaghetti with grated Parmesan cheese and serve.